I so love ISO


As a follow up to Tracey's last post, here's a bit more on ISO.
While visiting San Francisco for the BlogHer08 conference, my friend Josh Hallett, armed with his Nikon D3 and mammoth telephoto lens, suggested we shoot the Golden Gate Bridge... at night. I jumped at the chance and then remembered that I had virtually no experience shooting in the dark.
There were a few things I did know. I knew that a Flash would be useless. And I knew that I would need to use a tripod because a night shot would require a super slow shutter speed, so holding the camera steady in my hands would be impossible. I also knew enough to know that I would narrow my aperture to an f/22 because I wanted the entire scene to be in focus.
"So what's your ISO setting?" Josh asked as he deftly detached his camera from the tripod to make room for mine.
"I don't know." I mumbled in the dark. "I've got it set to auto." Mind you, there's nothing wrong with letting your camera do some of the work, but taking control of certain settings such as aperture and ISO will make a world of difference in your ability to capture great images regardless of your lighting conditions.
The very next day, as Tracey mentioned, Me Ra Koh demystified ISO, explaining that ISO control is the digital equivalent of film speed. With your digital SLR, you can adjust your ISO setting to control the amount of light needed to capture your image. On my Nikon D80, I simply press the ISO button on the back of the camera and rotate the main command dial until it displays the setting I want (e.g., 100, 200, 320, etc.) on the control panel.
Shooting a shell on a sunny day at the beach? Set your ISO to 100 or 200. Shooting traces of a sunset at night without a tripod or your seven-year-old blowing out the candles on her birthday cake in a dim room? Set your ISO to a higher number such as 800 or 1000. I captured the shot above with my ISO set to 1000. Keep in mind that the higher the ISO setting, the more grain or noise you'll get in the image. If you're shooting a sunset and you do have a tripod handy to capture the serenity of the scene, you can use a low ISO setting such as 100 or 200 and just decrease your shutter speed to let more light in. By controlling your ISO setting, you expand your ability to capture the images you want... even in the dark.
Do share your shots and tips for shooting in low light conditions in the comments.
(Image and words by Stephanie Roberts -- uploaded by Karen)
**Please note that Tracey got her highs and lows mixed up in yesterdays post...indeed, the higher the ISO number, the MORE noise you will encounter. Ooops! Didn't mean to confuse anyone!! She vows to proof read her post next time! : )
Reader Comments (19)
http://flickr.com/photos/ssicore/2639750001/in/photostream/
http://www.dolcepics.com/articles/exposure-101-iso/
One of the examples I use to illustrate when to use a higher ISO is on that post and refers to low light shots in restaurants.
I drool over the D3 or D700 with it's gorgeous full frame sensor that has incredibly clean images at ridiculously high ISO's. Mmmm... yummy!
Here's one that I had to change my ISO reading to 1800 in order to get the shot:
http://bravo.unisonplatform.com/~marciesc/index.php?showimage=423
Here's one that I had to set it at 100:
http://bravo.unisonplatform.com/~marciesc/index.php?showimage=469
around a year ago, I was staying at home for a bit-and my dad woke me up to go and watch the lunar eclipse with him. Our cameras ready, taking turns on the tripod.
A red blur captured in the night sky.
I didn't know then what I know now (which is really nothing) But I've figured out a way to roll with it.
The picture I give today is a mistake, a heavy full moon spying on my through the living room window -anyway. Not a success story, but a mistake that I love..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amgreco92/2554403483/in/set-72157606407744002/
But that also introduces a lot of noise.
Here's one I took the other day with a tripod. I wanted a really crisp photo, so I left the ISO at 100 and set the exposure to 5 seconds.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/amgreco92/2709285134/
In low light I also usually open the apeture as wide as it will go to let in the most light.
Can you clarify which is correct? Or if it just depends on the situation?
Thanks!!
http://www.wineonthekeyboard.com/2008/04/08/the-really-cool-wooden-bench/
Here I've figured out that with my canon 40D I can use iso 640 in my kitchen, with just the kitchen lights, no flash, to photograph any recipes I add to my blog. I find I can use higher iso settings with my 40D and still get crisp photos.
http://www.wineonthekeyboard.com/2008/05/28/fabulous-swiss-cheese-fondue/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ashleydano/2669092376/
this was shot with the ISO set at 200 but the shutter was opened for 1/20 of a second. tough to keep the camera still at lower speeds, but worth the try. :)
my most recent entry, Monday 28 08
A photo of my DD and DH as they walk down the isle during her wedding rehursal. 100iso, no flash, lots of movement. I wanted the moment to last.
http://wayfaring-wanderer.blogspot.com/2008/07/quick-getaway-gatlinburg-tn.html
I have trouble with shaky hands, I normally try to find something to prop myself up against when I don't have a tripod.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tangobaby2/2408957449/in/set-72157604517988945/
YES...the higher the number of your ISO (like 1600 for example) the more grain or noise you will find.
If any of you ever shot 1600 speed B/W film back in the day know what that grain is all about. It can be cool when you want it but not cool if you don't want it.
Whew. I'm glad you're on your photo toes out there! : )
http://www.flickr.com/photos/somethingcheeky/2711170361/sizes/l/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/somethingcheeky/2711952860/sizes/l/
If I'm shooting subjects that are somewhat far away (e.g. outdoors), I'll often put my camera on a stable surface (i.e. the ground in non-earthquake prone regions), set it at aperture priority and let the shutter take her sweet old time. If I'm shooting close subjects, I open my aperture WIDE open (or a couple stops short of wide open). Since my Sigma 30mm f/1.4 is on my camera 99% of the time, I can open things up pretty wide.
I also shoot my images in RAW format (digital negative) to give me the most editing capabilities if I need to correct exposure in post-processing.
I just did a post about shooting in low light today too:
http://www.sarah-ji.com/blog/2008/7/27/night-light.html
This was shot at f5.6 because pretty much the whole of the subject in the photo is a good distance away. By using a wider aperture, the shutter speed was "only" six seconds, instead of the 96 seconds you'd need for the same photo at f22. Most lenses have an optimum aperture, on which all focussing and sharpness peaks: usually around f8 or f11. Use these whenever you can. In any kind of landscape photography, whatever the lighting conditions, you should get to know depth of field, particuarly how it is affected by aperture and camera-to-subject distances. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Depth_of_field
Joe McNally has a great tip on how to hold your camera more steady in low-light situations, too, over at YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDsx3-FWfwk
Here's one of my daughter sleeping- not bad for a nearly dark room- ISO 1600.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/designcrane/2715502824/